This is the title page of a book left lying on a motorbike saddle in Yazd. The wind must have blown it open; the picture of Ayatollah Khomeini grabbed my attention, and when I moved closer I saw the English text that the book's owner (or a secret admirer) had inscribed. Does the message refer to the subject of the photo, the owner of the book, or someone else? I'll never know, but images like this are what make Iran totally unique.
31 December 2008
Kharanaq mud-brick village, Yazd province, Iran
After leaving the peaceful mountainside temple at Chak Chak, we drove back along the dusty deserted road that we had driven in on. Hassan was now going to take us to the ancient mud-brick village of Kharanaq.
We arrived at the village and were amazed by the settlement of mud-brick dwellings in varying states of repair. Again we were the only visitors. Hassan led us through the maze of rounded structures until we came to an archway which opened into a small garden with a table covered in a pink check tablecloth! The owner appeared with a tray of chay! Over the low walls, rounded, golden, earth plastered dwellings formed organic shapes. There was complete silence.
Soon, lunch was served - camel and potato stew, mini spinach and potato omelettes and flat breads. And then - ahhh... coffee served with milk. After a few cups of coffee and chats in the sunshine, Hassan brought us through the maze of buildings - some inhabited and many in ruins, with half-crumbled walls revealing the inner structure of the rooms.
Soon we saw a geometrically decorated minaret which Hassan said we could climb to the top of. Once inside the main door, we were faced with a small square opening which you have to climb up into before accessing the stairwell. This inner structure is very narrow and when you take the first few narrow steps and turn the corner, there is complete darkness. I freaked out a bit but Ben said that the steps became illuminated around the next bend!
You then come to a small opening which you have to heave yourself out of and up onto a narrow ledge of about a foot in diameter. Pretty scary stuff as below you is another inner opening with a huge drop below. I was shaking when I got up there but the views were worth it - the village and surrounding mountains lit up by the sun. As I sat clinging on to the ledge, Hussan and Ben disappeared through another tiny hole and up the final steps to the top. Then Hussan told me to hold on as he shook the minaret - I could feel the whole tower swaying. You don't expect buildings to move about like this - too too freaky...
We arrived at the village and were amazed by the settlement of mud-brick dwellings in varying states of repair. Again we were the only visitors. Hassan led us through the maze of rounded structures until we came to an archway which opened into a small garden with a table covered in a pink check tablecloth! The owner appeared with a tray of chay! Over the low walls, rounded, golden, earth plastered dwellings formed organic shapes. There was complete silence.
Soon, lunch was served - camel and potato stew, mini spinach and potato omelettes and flat breads. And then - ahhh... coffee served with milk. After a few cups of coffee and chats in the sunshine, Hassan brought us through the maze of buildings - some inhabited and many in ruins, with half-crumbled walls revealing the inner structure of the rooms.
Soon we saw a geometrically decorated minaret which Hassan said we could climb to the top of. Once inside the main door, we were faced with a small square opening which you have to climb up into before accessing the stairwell. This inner structure is very narrow and when you take the first few narrow steps and turn the corner, there is complete darkness. I freaked out a bit but Ben said that the steps became illuminated around the next bend!
You then come to a small opening which you have to heave yourself out of and up onto a narrow ledge of about a foot in diameter. Pretty scary stuff as below you is another inner opening with a huge drop below. I was shaking when I got up there but the views were worth it - the village and surrounding mountains lit up by the sun. As I sat clinging on to the ledge, Hussan and Ben disappeared through another tiny hole and up the final steps to the top. Then Hussan told me to hold on as he shook the minaret - I could feel the whole tower swaying. You don't expect buildings to move about like this - too too freaky...
News and weather forecast - Iranian style
I can never resist checking out the local television stations when on holidays. Japanese TV is definitely one of my favorites so far but Iran comes a close second! I was delighted when I came across a news station with the female presenters wearing the full chador! The weather forecaster was also decked out in similar garb. (No extra clothing allowance then).
30 December 2008
Aisling at Golestan Palace, Tehran
The Qajar dynasty, the last true monarchy in Iran, moved their capital to Tehran at the end of the eighteenth century. Golestan Palace is one of the palaces they built there. While it's spectacular in its own way, let's just say that earlier rulers of Persia left even more impressive architectural legacies over the previous 2,500 years.
Receptionists at Hotel Atlas, Tehran
These two glam gals are the receptionists at Hotel Atlas! I just love their air hostess style uniforms. And you can see less glamorous me in the mirror behind them.
27 December 2008
Yazdi man
Finally a snap from the 'big' camera. Everything else you've seen so far on the blog since we're in Iran have been camera phone snaps. More to come...
This lad was sitting at the side of the road with a bunch of mates and asked me to take his picture, so here it is. Thanks to the anonymous Yazdi man. Ya Ali.
This lad was sitting at the side of the road with a bunch of mates and asked me to take his picture, so here it is. Thanks to the anonymous Yazdi man. Ya Ali.
Zoroastrian pilgrimage site, Chak Chak, Yazd province, Iran
We hired a driver today to bring us around some spectacular historical sites around the desert city of Yazd. One of these is Chak Chak which is a Zoroastrian pilgrimage site.
To get here, we drove across a moonscape of craggy mountains which you can see in the distance here. The site is the source of a clear mountain spring and a tree reputed to be a thousand years old. There is one caretaker who lives here alone all year apart for the time of the Zoroastrian festival when the place is thronged with thousands of worshipers.
This is a view from inside the temple which we had to ourselves. It was completely peaceful and silent and made a lovely change to the noisy city sounds.
To get here, we drove across a moonscape of craggy mountains which you can see in the distance here. The site is the source of a clear mountain spring and a tree reputed to be a thousand years old. There is one caretaker who lives here alone all year apart for the time of the Zoroastrian festival when the place is thronged with thousands of worshipers.
This is a view from inside the temple which we had to ourselves. It was completely peaceful and silent and made a lovely change to the noisy city sounds.
Persian beefcake kitch
This guy caught my eye when we passed a poster shop in Esfahan. Not exactly my type but obviously he must set a few sparks flying under those black chadors.
Text art
If Ben is in 'Tea Heaven', then I am definitely in 'Pattern heaven'! This script which was on the bus we took to Yazd is probably a prayer of some sort but to me it is the most intricate and exotic design and I have been keeping an eye out for examples of everyday Persian text which are out of the ordinary to me!
Lady in black
We have used the taxi-sharing system a few times but this was my first chance to sit beside a woman in full chador. Ben sat in the front and with a few Farsi and English words and lots of laughs we all tried to make ourselves understood. When we got out of the car, I held hands with the woman and her final parting to me was 'Happy'! - How lovely
Phone blogging
I really didn't expect it to be this easy; Aisling takes a snap on her phone, bluetooths it to mine and I send it to Flickr and Blogger simultaneously via the hotel's wireless network. Wicked, as we used to say in the nineties.
Aisling's phone's panorama feature
Aisling's discoved that she has this fantastic panorama stitching feature built into her phone. We're looking forward to creating some modernist mosques!
25 December 2008
Iranian food
Most restaurants or teahouses have a selection of day-beds or takht, covered in rugs on which you can recline on cushions and eat your meal. Some of the dishes we've enjoyed include Fesenjun, which is roast chicken in a sauce of grated pomegranate, walnuts, aubergine and cardamon, served with rice. Another dish, Mirza Ghasemi, which is mashed aubergine, tomato, egg and garlic served with bread or rice - and one of my favourites, cooked by Nima's mum in Masuleh, was a green vegetarian dish with nuts and seasoned with lots of dill. This was served with sliced tomato and cucumber on the side, yoghurt and a bowl of crispy rice. Yum!
The entrance portal to the Imam Mosque, Esfahan
The beauty of Esfahan's mosques is truly breathtaking. This portal was built between 1611 and 1615 CE under the Safavid king Shah Abbas I.
The entrance portal to the Imam mosque, Esfahan.
I've found that most people in Iran are amenable to having their photo taken if you ask first, but in this case I'm guessing from their expressions that these two didn't mind being in this snap!
Masuleh
Another of Nima's shots - this time of his mum knitting (note the lack of veil or manteau: she's among family) and his sister Kiera Knightly. Shame she's not in the frame properly.
Masuleh
One of Nima's snaps out the window showing the end of the valley and the surrounding mountain tops.
Masuleh
Sitting on the floor in the guest room in Masuleh, nice and toasty beside the kerosene heater.
Hot beverages and lack of alcohol
The lack of alcohol hasn't bothered me as much as I had expected, although I have fantasized about chilled beer and Amaretto on several occasions. I gave in one evening and ordered a Bavaria beer (0.0%). It had a nice malty taste and I could almost believe it was having an effect.
I have rehearsed a plan for our departure day, though; I'm going to board the plane in Tehran and remove my veil once we're airborne and order the strongest drink available.
Masuleh village
Masuleh village is beautiful; after the brutalist ugliness of Tehran and the humdrum towns of Rasht and Fuman, it's a real delight to be surrounded by forests, mountains and snow. Masuleh is situated at the end of a steep-sided bowl-shaped
valley. The buses stop at the lower end of the town. From there, the town's streets are a network of stone steps and walkways snaking around and between the houses. Each of the buildings are finished in a toffee-coloured plaster
and are flat-roofed. All have wooden windows and some have balconies. What's remarkable about Masuleh is that the roofs of lower houses form the pathway in front of higher houses. Everything is covered in a substantial layer of fresh snow.
We met Nima; he led us up through the town, smiling and chatting and sometimes helping to lug Aisling's suitcase up steep, icy stone steps. After a few minutes we arrived at his parent's house, perched above a steep drop down to a ruined house below. After we'd stepped indoors and shed our shoes, Nima's mum led us upstairs via a short, carpeted passage with whitewashed walls and up a steep stone staircase into a large, bright room with high ceilings, no furniture, overlapping Persian rugs on the floor and stunning views over the valley and the town. A kerosene heater kept the room at a snug temperature, despite the gaps in the window frame. It only took us a moment to decide to stay. We curled up on the floor and while Nima's mum prepared us a light lunch of wholemeal naan, chunky deep-red marmalade and chay, Nima pestered us for "game, empee thuree" until I gave him my phone. I only got it back an hour or two later, stone dead, the battery utterly flat. He never got a go of Aisling's phone, but I'm now the happy owner of some great candid snaps of Nima, his family, shots of the town and gurning videos.
valley. The buses stop at the lower end of the town. From there, the town's streets are a network of stone steps and walkways snaking around and between the houses. Each of the buildings are finished in a toffee-coloured plaster
and are flat-roofed. All have wooden windows and some have balconies. What's remarkable about Masuleh is that the roofs of lower houses form the pathway in front of higher houses. Everything is covered in a substantial layer of fresh snow.
We met Nima; he led us up through the town, smiling and chatting and sometimes helping to lug Aisling's suitcase up steep, icy stone steps. After a few minutes we arrived at his parent's house, perched above a steep drop down to a ruined house below. After we'd stepped indoors and shed our shoes, Nima's mum led us upstairs via a short, carpeted passage with whitewashed walls and up a steep stone staircase into a large, bright room with high ceilings, no furniture, overlapping Persian rugs on the floor and stunning views over the valley and the town. A kerosene heater kept the room at a snug temperature, despite the gaps in the window frame. It only took us a moment to decide to stay. We curled up on the floor and while Nima's mum prepared us a light lunch of wholemeal naan, chunky deep-red marmalade and chay, Nima pestered us for "game, empee thuree" until I gave him my phone. I only got it back an hour or two later, stone dead, the battery utterly flat. He never got a go of Aisling's phone, but I'm now the happy owner of some great candid snaps of Nima, his family, shots of the town and gurning videos.
Arriving in Masuleh
We succeeded in getting to Masuleh the following day. We took a minibus from Fuman. Ben got 'chatting' to a Mullah - revered holy-man with turban style headgear and flowing beard and robes. I followed behind them on the street - (two steps behind), and was again so amused and impressed to watch Ben being able to communicate in Farsi!Holy man directed us to the spot where the mini-bus was and we loaded on our bags and joined two guys sitting inside huddled around a gas stove! The driver simply waits until he has enough passengers to make the journey worth his while. So after lots of parping horns and engine revving, we finally pulled off.
The bus was better equipped for the icy roads and we were soon past the place where we had to turn back the previous day. We started climbing higher into the mountains and the snow covering got thicker the further we got. Every now and then, we'd stop to pick up some craggy mountain folk who bundled in beside us.
We arrived in Masuleh and the village looked beautiful covered in a blanket of fresh snow. We started rolling our cases up the hill and soon we saw a little boy come running towards us. He asked us if we were looking for a room so we followed him up narrow stone steps and to his parent's house. His name is Nima.
22 December 2008
Our hotel room in Rasht (on the way to Masuleh)
If you think the room is grim, you should see Aisling's hair after a day under her veil! :-) Ah, in fairness the room is clean. Decor and lighting are eye-poppingly woeful though. Tomorrow, bus to Fuman and then a taxi to Masuleh.
Alborz mountins
Bus and truck stop towards dusk on the road to Rasht
Two thimblefuls of chay for 3000 rials - that's 22c. Clean, marble-lined squat loos.
Included with the fare...
...a lucky bag for each passenger containing a tea cup, banana-flavored Topi Cake, and a RAND chocolate hazelout wafer. Very civilized.
We're on the bus from Tehran to Rasht. We'll find another bus there to take us to the ancient mountain village of Masuleh, where we're planning to spend a few days before heading south and east again.
We're on the bus from Tehran to Rasht. We'll find another bus there to take us to the ancient mountain village of Masuleh, where we're planning to spend a few days before heading south and east again.
Blogging by phone with no roaming
There are no international roaming agreements between European mobile operators and operators in Iran, so I'm dependent on finding the odd open wireless network to get my backed-up mail sent. I have the email client on my phone configured to relay mail via my Gmail account, so I don't need to care about which SMTP server to use either. So far it's been working well! We'll see how it goes over the coming days as we retreat into the wilds away from modern conveniences like wireless networks.
Extraordinary welcome
I've been delighted by the help and welcome we've received in the few days we've been in Iran - but today's experience at the bus station makes me realize how pleasant travelling independently in Iran is going to be. I've made the effort to learn a few words of Farsi and this effort is making all the difference. We arrived at Tehran's Western bus station (terminal-e gharb), a vast, sprawling bus park scattered with tea and snack kiosks. Sunk into the ground in the middle of this is the terminal building itself. It's a huge concourse lined with bright shops - bookshops, chay stands, sandwich bars - and dozens of ticket counters each belonging to competing private bus companies. Normally this kind of setup is an exercise in frustration - running around trying to figure out the right place to buy the appropriate class of ticket without getting skanked or made to feel like a complete fool. Let's just say I've had a few moments like this in places like India.
Well, this time it was different - very different. At the first counter I was directed immediately to the company selling tickets to Rasht. The Rasht bus counter was heaving but I got to the top of the crush quickly and asked for two tickets to Rasht. "Ahh, you speak Farsi!" beamed the guy behind the counter (in Farsi) and moments later I had our tickets. I asked what time the bus left and was delighted to be able to understand his reply. Next question was "where is the bus?" I didn't understand the reply, but the man's hand signals indicated he'd show me. Aisling had been standing to one side with the suitcases (living out of a backpack at our age is a drag) so after profusely thanking the guy at the ticket counter, I joined her and we took our time buying some snacks for the journey and slurping some sweet black chay.
Some time later the bloke from the ticket counter joined up and introduced us to his colleague who led us a short distance to our bus, lined up with dozens of others, their destinations displayed in Persian script. He disappeared after my thanks. Everything happened at a pleasant pace - there was no pushing or shoving. People excuse themselves if they need to squeeze past one amother in a tight spot here. I loaded our luggage into the bus's belly and received two plastic tokens in return - like you would at a cloakroom. Finally, the bus driver's assistent guided us to our seats, where we settled down, relaxed and comfortable. Ten minutes later, the bus departed.
Before our journey to Iran began, I'd heard many times of the hospitality and helpfulness of ordinary Iranians. Every word of it is true.
17 December 2008
More thoughts on the hijab or chador
I am much more used to wearing the veil now and it only seems really odd when I catch myself in a mirror! It also has to be said that there are lots of stunning Persian women who manage to wear it and still look highly glamourous. The daring ones backcomb the front section of hair into almost bee-hive proportions and rest the scarf as far back as they feel they can get away with. They focus on dramatic eye make-up with layers of mascara and smoky eyeshadow. Unfortunately I don't have the hair to carry this look off!
So it got me thinking about the chador - the full-on garb is like a huge black sheet which falls from the head to the ground and is grasped at the neck or higher to partially cover the face when necessary - (to avoid strange men peering at your cheekbones or something equally silly).
So the whole scarf thing almost has an invisible cloak feeling to it - the bigger the surface area, the more invisible you are and if your friend was walking ahead of you up the street and she wasn't the only one wearing the full-size version, there's no way you'd be able to recognise her. I wonder how many times women partially cover their faces to hide their identity or avoid having to make small talk with neighbours or friends that they're not in the mood to talk to? "Nazin, I thought I saw you at the market today" - "Nah - I was having a spray tan and pedicure at Ferdosi Glamour"
Kicking our heels in Fuman
We're kicking our heels under a wall-to-wall blanket of low stratus cloud in a pokey town called Fuman, in hilly, forested rural Gilan. Today we tried and failed to get to the ancient mountain town of Masuleh.
The day started early in Rasht, after a delicious breakfast of naan, cheese, eggs, honey and multiple cups of chay. We found the minibus to Fuman with no trouble and jammed ourselves in on the back seat beside the other passengers. Seconds after I'd taken my seat (beside Aisling, who was at the window) there was a musical chairs moment because there was no seat available for another lady passenger which wasn't beside a man. I switched places with another guy, into his single seat and then vacated the seat he'd just left so that a lady in chador could take the seat. It's a funny arrangement - like dominoes, with just two types of piece - male and female. Male beside male, female beside female, unless you have a piece on which the mail end is 'married' to the female end. A culturally-imposed packing problem.
The little blue minibus rumbled to life and clambered over the bumpy, muddy road as the rain started to bucket down outside. The windows behind the tassel-trimmed, blue-and-white patterned curtains quickly steamed up. Aisling rubbed away the condensation to reveal a heavy sleet falling. Two (gorgeous) young women a couple of rows ahead of us started playing a game of 'tug the veil', which consisted of the girl on the rear bench pulling back the hejab of the girl in front so that most of her head was visible. The girl in front reflexively tugged her veil forward again, only to have it pulled back by her friend a moment later, amid giggles and shrieks.
During the journey, the sleet turned to snow, though it wasn't sticking on the road. The hilly, deciduous tree landscape was covered with a thin layer of snow and the heavy overcast meant we coundn't see the mountains at all. We arrived in Fuman after about half an hour and quickly organised a taxi to take us to Masuleh, a journey of 25km.
The taxi driver didn't have a word of English so once again I was glad of my minimal Persian. We could negotiate the destination and price with ease. The manky old Paykan car swung around long looping roads, climbing into the mountains between forested slopes as the snow got heavier and heavier, now sticking to the road. Sometime after Aisling's ears had popped, the car was struggling to make it up a straight incline. Shortly we came to a standstill, wheels spinning. The driver indicated that we should go back to Fuman (no language skills required here) and I didn't argue. The driver turned the car around and soon we were back on (wet) black tarmac. We stopped for a quick chay in a shack by the side of the road - the driver insisted on paying for our chay - and then resumed our journey. I strung together the Farsi for "Do you know anybody with a Jeep?" to which the driver replied that the minibuses which make the journey have four wheel drive, but that there wouldn't be any more today. Talk soon turned to finding a hotel and getting lunch. I didn't believe that the canned phrase I'd learnt: "We're going to go and have lunch, would you like to join us?" ...would be any use, but amazingly this was a situation which required that I reel off the entire construction a couple of times. Our driver declined. His contract with us concluded in a most friendly manner with us paying marginally more than we'd originally negotiated amid smiles all around.
Fuman has one hotel, built recently by successful local business man and concrete engineer, where we're now booked in for the night. We'll be up early tomorrow to find out if minibuses will be going to Masuleh. In the meantime, we have the rest of the afternoon and evening to kill. The family who run the hotel are celebrating Eid tonight, which is a festival that crept up on us unawares. We may get invited, but despite the fact that I'm sure we'll be welcomed by the family, I'm squirming at the thought of having to diplomatically answer questions about children (lack of), religion (lack of) and international politics.
Loving the craziness...
We've found another internet cafe so I can write some more. Ben has been writing blogs and uploading them from his mobile but I am too slow at typing - MUST learn to use predictive text! I've been remarking to Ben that I haven't felt angry at anyone since we get here and that's a great feeling! Although it's pretty crazy and in some ways like India, the people are incredibly friendly and have a brilliant sense of humour which eases every situation.
When we checked out of our hotel in Tehran, we stood at the side of a busy roundabout junction to hail a taxi. The way it works here is that you shout your destination through the open passenger window and the driver decides whether he wants to take the fare or not. If not, he just drives on. We were conspicuous because of our luggage and so it turned into a bit of a circus! - But the mood was totally light-hearted and it was then as I mentioned above, that I noticed that I haven't really felt any anger towards anyone since we got here. This might sound bad but anyone who has travelled in Asia will probably know what I mean. I actually didn't care how long it took as I was enjoying just standing there watching the mild chaos.
When we checked out of our hotel in Tehran, we stood at the side of a busy roundabout junction to hail a taxi. The way it works here is that you shout your destination through the open passenger window and the driver decides whether he wants to take the fare or not. If not, he just drives on. We were conspicuous because of our luggage and so it turned into a bit of a circus! - But the mood was totally light-hearted and it was then as I mentioned above, that I noticed that I haven't really felt any anger towards anyone since we got here. This might sound bad but anyone who has travelled in Asia will probably know what I mean. I actually didn't care how long it took as I was enjoying just standing there watching the mild chaos.
Several taxis pulled up, swerving and honking in their clapped out cars. On one occasion, a taxi stopped a short distance past us and the driver literally threw a family of women and children out of the car before gesturing that he would give us a lift. We were appalled and made it obvious that we were not going to take their place.The mother looked relieved and climbed back into the car!
Still, it was fun to watch how the taxi service works here - no queues - whoever gets their shout in first gets the lift! We found a taxi shortly after that and climbed into a dilapidated but cool car with sheepskin dashboard and exposed metal on the internal doors. Our 50-something driver was good looking in that dark swarthy way with leathery hands and a twinkle in his eye. We shared our Dutch honey licorice with him and he was fascinated with the flavour :-)
Sometimes it feel like being in a movie, (although we're only here a few days). We have literally only seen about 2 tourists since we arrived so we feel like we have the place to ourselves. Ben's going to tell you about our failed attempt to get to the beautiful thousand year old mountain village of Masuleh. Our final car journey had to turn back when we were less than 15km away due to lots of.......snow!! We'll attempt it again tomorrow.
Bye for now - khodah hafez!
15 December 2008
Stained glass light on decorative floor tiles at Golestan Palace, Tehran
Stained glass light on decorative floor tiles at Golestan Palace, Tehran
Originally uploaded by rastapopolos
yek ta moment Irani
Waiting for the lift in the hotel after breakfast this morning, two little boys ran up and hopped into the lift before me. They jumped out at the first floor, met by their dad. He pulled the lift door open fully, spotted me and smiled "hello mister." It was only then that I remembered the woman standing a few metres away as we waited for the lift moments before - she'd chosen not to get into the lift with me and the boys.
Moral of the story - don't try to get into lifts with lone Irani women.
14 December 2008
First impressions
Posted as me, but really from Aisling:
"In the queue for the toilets on the plane, a gorgeous Iranian girl struck up a conversation with me. She asked me how I felt about having to wear the hijab. I responded politely that I didn't mind too much as it is the rule here. She told me she hates wearing it. She also told me she married an Iranian with Canadian citizenship and they moved to Toronto five years ago. She used to be angry all the time when she lived in Iran and hated the regime although she loves her country. Unfortunately, she said that her husband, although well-educated, was surprisingly traditional about Islamic issues regarding women. Eventually their differing views led to them divorcing. She also said that there's a high rate of divorce in Iran, but that only men can divorce their wives and not the other way around.In our first few hours in Tehran we've found people to be open and friendly and the atmosphere in the airport was completely relaxed, with everyone smiling and greeting friends and relatives arriving.My "disguise" seemed to be appropriate; however I need to master how to secure my veil as it keeps flapping at the side of my face and I keep wanting to push it back. It's like having long hair that keeps blowing across your face. Annoying, but I will get somewhat used to it I suppose.The headscarf is something I'm continually aware of and I'm not sure I've quite got the hang of putting it on correctly - (although I have seen a few different styles, sizes and ways of customising it) I was thinking about it today and I actually don't mind having to wear a particular item of clothing. I don't feel repressed. (Although I know I certainly would if the time period extended beyond 21 days!) In fact in a way I feel like I blend in with everyone else and can become more observant of others without being so obviously different or 'touristy'. What does bother me is the fact that I have to keep adjusting it to make sure it's sitting properly. Then there is the issue of restricted vision and reduced hearing! Finally and most irritating is the fact that it is difficult to control or adjust my body temperature in different situations - for example, my wool pashmina is lovely and snug outdoors but as soon as we go into a restaurant I instantly get too hot. Today I had a brainwave - to carry my lighter black cotton scarf in my bag - and so was able to swap headwear once we went indoors (not in public, but in the bathroom, of course!)Apart from all the moans, it's just crazy fun to be here with zero tourists and in regime-ruled Muslim-land ;-) After lunch today (we spent the morning moving to a different hotel) we walked by the "Den of Espionage" - the old US Embassy. There are dramatic anti-American and anti-Israeli murals painted on the outer walls of the compound which we discreetly photographed. Then we took the Metro to the Bazaar and spent a couple of hours getting happily lost in a maze of interlocking passages, with vendors displaying colourful arrays of items from Bollywood-style bras to Persian rugs. Above us were the most beautiful brick vaulted ceilings. As I followed Ben, I felt like I was watching Tintin on a foreign adventure - Tintin in Persia! We were the only Europeans in the place and yet little fuss was made of us aside from some genuinely warm welcomes to Iran. I was swept along, wrapped in my headscarf and jumping aside to allow a constant stream of vendors to squeeze past with trollies and motorbikes piled high with goods."
That's just our first day in Iran - I have a feeling this will be a special holiday indeed. Right now we're planning on heading to Masuleh, which is an ancient village in the mountains north-west of Tehran. We'll be in Tehran for another couple of days though.
One for techies
Here's a traceroute from an Iranian coffenet to Google - the packets take a very interesting path.
Microsoft Windows XP [Version 5.1.2600]
(C) Copyright 1985-2001 Microsoft Corp.
(C) Copyright 1985-2001 Microsoft Corp.
C:\Documents and Settings\INTERNET-1>tracert www.google.com
Tracing route to www.l.google.com [66.249.91.147]
over a maximum of 30 hops:
1 1 ms <1 ms <1 ms 192.168.1.1
2 16 ms 15 ms 14 ms 91.98.88.1.parsonline.net [91.98.88.1]
3 19 ms 18 ms 18 ms 10.234.245.173
4 20 ms 20 ms 18 ms 10.234.232.157
5 23 ms 22 ms 19 ms 82.99.201.241.parsonline.net [82.99.201.241]
6 * * * Request timed out.
7 22 ms 19 ms 19 ms 10.234.249.254
8 23 ms 21 ms 23 ms 78.38.255.61
9 21 ms 21 ms 24 ms 78.38.255.197
10 24 ms 20 ms 23 ms 78.38.255.229
11 44 ms 49 ms 44 ms 212.156.90.29
12 43 ms 42 ms 45 ms erzurum_t2_1-erzurum_t2_2.turktelekom.com.tr [212.156.252.101]
13 53 ms 56 ms 51 ms ulus_t1_1-erzurum_t2_1.turktelekom.com.tr [212.156.109.25]
14 62 ms 58 ms 59 ms acibadem_t1_1-ulus_t1_1.turktelekom.com.tr [212.156.117.33]
15 670 ms 810 ms 898 ms acibadem_t2_1-acibadem_t1_1.turktelekom.com.tr [212.156.117.6]
16 152 ms 154 ms 153 ms ams_col_1-acibadem_t2_1.turktelekom.com.tr [212.156.102.9]
17 145 ms 142 ms 144 ms 212.156.102.14
18 146 ms 142 ms 141 ms 209.85.254.92
19 137 ms 138 ms 140 ms 64.233.175.246
20 119 ms 120 ms 121 ms 72.14.233.79
21 142 ms 123 ms 122 ms 66.249.94.154
22 145 ms 147 ms 149 ms ik-in-f147.google.com [66.249.91.147]
Trace complete.
"Tourism, a tool for peace and dialogue among civilizations"
Iran, day zero: Expected versus actual:
Airport passport control and customs
Expected: grim-faced, militaristic customs staff and heavily armed police all over the terminal building. Actual: Friendly passport control guy, who smiled and said "Welcome to Iran" in a slightly embarrased, I'm practicing-my-English sort of way. No police, no guns. Plenty of smiling families everywhere.
Tehran architecture
Expected: Grim concrete. Actual: Astonishingly grim, ugly concrete.
Hotel room
Expected: International quality double room. Actual: Twin room decorated in a hospital interior design style. Two singles. Hotel otherwise booked out, so no other option.
State of mind: Expected: excited anticipation. Actual: Stressed anticipation.
We got into Tehran at five to midnight and crept into our (separate) beds at two'oclock in the morning. We're here.
04 December 2008
Travel Insurance
In an earlier post I listed some companies providing travel insurance. In general, no company had any problems with Iran as a destination - they applied no extra surcharges - but did point us to the UK's Foreign and Commonwealth Office Travel Advice Unit for exclusions pertaining to Iran. In short our policy doesn't cover us if we travel to within 100km of the Afghanistan border or within 10Km of the Iraq border.
In the end we went with the VHI's annual Multi-trip policy, which cost €106 for the two of us. We already have healthcare cover from VHI, so it made sense to get our travel insurance from them.
In the end we went with the VHI's annual Multi-trip policy, which cost €106 for the two of us. We already have healthcare cover from VHI, so it made sense to get our travel insurance from them.
Life goes on in Tehran
Aisling found this wonderful photo blog on ordinary daily life in Tehran. I'll let the author speak for themselves:The whole idea behind my site is to show that Iran is not a dangerous country. To show that for the most part it's a beautiful country with kind, loving and hospitable people. If I were to constrain myself and not say everything that needs to be said then I would imply that I am afraid, and being afraid would mean that this is in fact a dangerous country and in doing so I would defeat my whole purpose! That said, if I were to be arrested or in any way reprimanded for this site, I would take back everything I just said. If I get arrested for a site that captures daily life in Tehran, then this country must be in deep trouble and suffering from an extreme case of paranoia. If this happens, I will invite all my visitors to raise hell.
29 November 2008
What we're reading, part 3: Lonely Planet: Iran
Lonely Planet: Iran, 2008.
The guide book which leaves the others in the shade. Aisling gives out to me for my reliance on this publishing house, but I've seldom been let down by their guide books in the eighteen years I've been using them.
The Iran guide is particularly useful for the information it provides on the culture and mores of Iran. Apart from that, you'll have a superb amount of completely practical information at your fingertips: Where do I get the bus from? What's the routine with taxis? (...arrange a fare, take the ride, feel like you got skanked - it's the same all over the world!) What can I eat? How do I say "Help! I've lost my wallet!" in the local language?
Lonely Planet guide books have become more visually pleasing in the last few years but haven't diverged from their original dense, information-packed two-column layout for the sections on travel in the country - this layout is superb for rapid scanning. The sections on context are in a more familiar single-column layout for reading and absorbing at a more leisurely pace.
The two things about these guide books which have caught me out before are the maps which almost-but-not-quite match the layout on the ground; maybe LP include trap streets on every map? Certainly feels like it sometimes.
The other point, unsurprisingly, is prices. Often you'll find that prices have inflated by a substantial proportion since the guide book was published. As inflation in Iran is currently running at over 24% for the first four months of 2008, it's probably safe to add another half again to any prices you see in the book. We'll report on this as we go.
The guide book which leaves the others in the shade. Aisling gives out to me for my reliance on this publishing house, but I've seldom been let down by their guide books in the eighteen years I've been using them.
The Iran guide is particularly useful for the information it provides on the culture and mores of Iran. Apart from that, you'll have a superb amount of completely practical information at your fingertips: Where do I get the bus from? What's the routine with taxis? (...arrange a fare, take the ride, feel like you got skanked - it's the same all over the world!) What can I eat? How do I say "Help! I've lost my wallet!" in the local language?
Lonely Planet guide books have become more visually pleasing in the last few years but haven't diverged from their original dense, information-packed two-column layout for the sections on travel in the country - this layout is superb for rapid scanning. The sections on context are in a more familiar single-column layout for reading and absorbing at a more leisurely pace.
The two things about these guide books which have caught me out before are the maps which almost-but-not-quite match the layout on the ground; maybe LP include trap streets on every map? Certainly feels like it sometimes.
The other point, unsurprisingly, is prices. Often you'll find that prices have inflated by a substantial proportion since the guide book was published. As inflation in Iran is currently running at over 24% for the first four months of 2008, it's probably safe to add another half again to any prices you see in the book. We'll report on this as we go.
What we're reading, part 2: "Iran: Everything You Need To Know"
"Iran: Everything You Need To Know by John Farndon, 2006, 128 pages, large type.
This is a short, light history of Iran written (as far as I can tell) without too much of a slant. It's especially useful for the quick summary of recent Iranian history and the structure of the political system. You'll read it in a couple of sittings. Useful for getting a quick overview of the country and its history.
I picked this up almost as an afterthought while buying a bunch of other books on Iran from Amazon. I'm glad I did; It's cheap and accessible, even if history and politics aren't your thing.
This is a short, light history of Iran written (as far as I can tell) without too much of a slant. It's especially useful for the quick summary of recent Iranian history and the structure of the political system. You'll read it in a couple of sittings. Useful for getting a quick overview of the country and its history.
I picked this up almost as an afterthought while buying a bunch of other books on Iran from Amazon. I'm glad I did; It's cheap and accessible, even if history and politics aren't your thing.
18 November 2008
Magic Carpet Ride
For as long as I can remember I have had a fascination with magic carpets and the wonderful concept of being able to fly off to any corner of the globe at a moments notice. I suppose this childhood fantasy has evolved into a love of travel and a desire to see some of the most amazing places in the world. So when Ben suggested Iran as a possible trip, it immediately conjured up a variety of different images for me.
As Ben has mentioned, there is a contrast between the almost mystical and magical Persian association which I visualise in a kaleidoscope of rich vibrant colours and patterns and present day Iran which if I am honest, I see as being more black and repressed. As a woman I find it hard to 'see' Iran in my mind without dis-associating it from images of women wrapped from head to toe in black loose-flowing robes.
It has been really interesting to dig deeper and research this country more so that I can dispel some of my initial pre-conceptions about Iran. My experience though will undoubtedly be different to Ben's as there are many restrictions and etiquette for female travellers that must be 'religiously' followed. This trip will challenge me in lots of different ways but I am looking forward to having a new persona for thee weeks and am thinking about this trip as a 'Fancy Dress' adventure!
As Ben has mentioned, there is a contrast between the almost mystical and magical Persian association which I visualise in a kaleidoscope of rich vibrant colours and patterns and present day Iran which if I am honest, I see as being more black and repressed. As a woman I find it hard to 'see' Iran in my mind without dis-associating it from images of women wrapped from head to toe in black loose-flowing robes.
It has been really interesting to dig deeper and research this country more so that I can dispel some of my initial pre-conceptions about Iran. My experience though will undoubtedly be different to Ben's as there are many restrictions and etiquette for female travellers that must be 'religiously' followed. This trip will challenge me in lots of different ways but I am looking forward to having a new persona for thee weeks and am thinking about this trip as a 'Fancy Dress' adventure!
13 November 2008
Get around the Internet blocks in Iran
The Iranian state has a tight control on which web sites its citizens may visit. (China and Turkey are two other countries whose governments are fearful of a medium whose content they cannot control.) Among the websites 'filtered' are Blogger and Flickr.However software systems have the wonderful property that if something is disabled through software, it's possible to get around that in software too. Enter Access Flickr!, a Firefox add-on which, when installed in Firefox on my virus-proof bootable USB stick, will allow me to blog from anywhere where I can find an internet-connected computer - including Iran. Yes, the web truly is subversive.
Midnight's Children
Salman Rushdie's book, Midnight's Children, is to be made into a film by Deepa Mehta. I look forward to it!Rushdie's infamous in Iran for The Satanic Verses. I thought it was a very funny book. As Poe's law states:
"it is impossible to create a parody of Fundamentalism that someone won't mistake for the real thing"
Signs of a thaw...
I'd mentioned in this post that Iranian president Ahmadinejad had conveyed his congratulations to president-elect Obama on winning the US election; I wasn't aware at the time that this was the first time since 1979 that an Iranian president had congratulated the winner of a US presidential election.
Perhaps it's the first sign of a thaw in relations between the two countries? Obama has stated:
Perhaps it's the first sign of a thaw in relations between the two countries? Obama has stated:
"We met with Stalin, we met with Mao. The idea that we can't meet with Ahmadinejad is ridiculous. This is a bunch of Washington-insider conventional wisdom that makes no sense. We should not run from this debate. We should have it."
06 November 2008
Ahmadinejad congratulates Obama on election victory
Straight from the Islamic Republic News Agency, Iran's state-controlled media service:
President Mahmoud Ahmadinejad in a message on Thursday congratulated the US president-elect Barack Obama on his election victory.Read the full story.He also said that it is expected basic and clear changes would take place in Washington's foreign and domestic policies, as demanded by all nations worldwide and the American people.
"As you know the opportunities provided by the Almighty God, which can be used for elevation of nations, or God forbid, for their collapse, are transient," the message read.
"I hope you will prefer real public interests and justice to the never ending demands of a selfish minority and seize the opportunity to serve people so that you will be remembered with high esteem," he said.
"On the other hand, the Americans who have spiritual tendencies expect the government to spend all its power in line with serving the people, rectify the critical situation facing the US, restore lost reputation as well as their hope and spirit, fully respect human rights and strengthen family foundations.
"Other nations also expect war-oriented policies, occupation, bullying, contempt of nations and imposing discriminatory policies on them to be replaced by the ones advocating justice, respect for human rights, friendship and non-interference in other countries' internal affairs.
"They also want US intervention to be limited to its borders, especially in the Middle East. It is highly expected to reverse the unfair attitude towards restoring the rights of the Palestinians, Iraqis and Afghans.
"The great nation of Iran welcomes basic and fair changes in US policies and conducts, especially in the region," President Ahmadinejad said.
Ahmadinejad also wished success, health and welfare for all humans and for the rulers to seize the opportunity to administer justice and eliminate tyranny from the face of the world.
Robin Yassin-Kassab: "My wife wears the hijab. I wish she didn't"
Monika brought an article in last weekend's Observer magazine to our attention: Robin Yassin-Kassab, author of Road from Damascus (which Aisling read and thoroughly enjoyed) has written a piece entitled "My wife wears the hijab, I wish she didn't". His wife Rana replies in a follow-on piece on the next page. One phrase of Rana's leapt out at Aisling:
Robin Yassin-Kassab also blogs here on blogspot. His pieces are always interesting and thought-provoking. He's posted the unedited version of this article too.
"...you have to believe in a superior power that knows better than you do."Eh, no, you don't, actually. What a disempowering thought.
Robin Yassin-Kassab also blogs here on blogspot. His pieces are always interesting and thought-provoking. He's posted the unedited version of this article too.
05 November 2008
Iranian Coffeenets: protect yourself from viruses
The following paragraph jumped out at me from the guide book over the weekend as I was blobbed out on the couch doing 'research':Unfortunately, Iranian coffeenets are badly infected with viruses. During this research trip our USB memory stick picked up more than 50 viruses, worms, Trojan horses, key-loggers and other nasties. So be careful about doing internet banking unless the anti-virus software is up to date, and scan carefully before sticking anything into your your own computer that has been in an Iranian machine. (July 2008 Lonely Planet Iran)I don't use Windows on any of my computers - I use Linux. Recent advances in Linux mean that it's now possible to have a complete, bootable installation of Linux on a memory stick, with room left over for another partition for your data - photos, text, whatever. It struck me that a very useful option would be to use a bootable USB stick in Iranian coffeenets (Internet cafes) - it'll just depend on how amenable the owners are on letting me reboot their boxes and fiddle with BIOS boot-order settings. Assuming that some at least will be cool about it, I've made myself a bootable, writable Linux distro on a stick by following these short, simple and clear instructions.
The newest Ubuntu distribution, 8.10, includes a utility for making a bootable USB stick too, though I haven't tried this yet.
01 November 2008
sligo hejab
Here's a friend of Marek's in Sligo a couple of weeks ago - she's a Polish catholic. It put me in mind of how Iranian women tend to dress when elsewhere in the middle east:
31 October 2008
Visas have arrived!
Contrary to expectations, applying for a visa was a very straightforward business. The Embassy of the Islamic Republic of Iran on Mount Merrion Avenue in Dublin processed our applications in less than one day. The cost was €50 each. More information on how we filled out our visas shortly.
It's also possible to apply for your Iran visa online - this isn't the approach we took and I have no idea how successful this approach is.
It's also possible to apply for your Iran visa online - this isn't the approach we took and I have no idea how successful this approach is.
US policy, the election and Iran's nuclear capability
Back in June, John Bolton, the former American ambassador to the UN stated that Israel will most likely attack Iran's nuclear facilities between the presidential election and the swearing-in of the new president:
Article IV The United Nations' Treaty on the Non-Proliferation of Nuclear Weapons (NPT) recognizes "the inalienable right of sovereign states to use nuclear energy for peaceful purposes." However, Iran was found to be non-compliant with its NPT obligations in an unusual non-consensus decision because it "failed in a number of instances over an extended period of time" to report aspects of its enrichment program.
The report which resulted in this decision states:
A 2007 article in the Israeli newspaper Haaretz quotes Brigadier General Giora Eiland, a member of the Institute for National Strategic Studies:"The Israelis have one eye on the calendar because of the pace at which the Iranians are proceeding both to develop their nuclear weapons capability and to do things like increase their defences by buying new Russian anti-aircraft systems and further harden the nuclear installations.
They're also obviously looking at the American election calendar. My judgement is they would not want to do anything before our election because there's no telling what impact it could have on the election."
"Even if, at the end of the day, Israeli jets are going to carry out, or execute, this attack, it might be perceived - and rightly - as an understanding between the United States and Israel."
The report which resulted in this decision states:
"To date, there is no evidence that the previously undeclared nuclear material and activities referred to [...] were related to a nuclear weapons programme. (My italics.) However, given Iran’s past pattern of concealment, it will take some time before the Agency is able to conclude that Iran’s nuclear programme is exclusively for peaceful purposes."Hardly a basis for the United States' client state in the region to attack Iran's nuclear installations, nothwithstanding the furore over Ahmedinejad's mistranslated pronouncements about Israel.
16 October 2008
Comparing travel insurance policies
Picking a travel insurance policy for Iran is a bit trickier than choosing one for your average holiday destination; here are a few that I've had recommended to me, that I've used before or that I'd consider using for a trip like this.
I'll report on which one is best for our purposes soon.
I'll report on which one is best for our purposes soon.
Itinerary: Part 1
Planning the itinerary has fallen into my hands; so far it looks like this:
- Tehran - ugly concrete, crazy traffic, outstanding museums, fabulous palaces.
- Qom - Ayatollah Khomeini's birthplace; the beating heart of hard-core Shia Islam.
- Isfahan - the sublime Imam square and stunning mosques.
- Shiraz - the cultural soul of Iran; ornate mausoleums, ancient mosques, gardens and palaces.
- Yazd - a peaceful mud-brick town on the edge of two deserts.
15 October 2008
Travel in health
Aisling and I dropped into our local Tropical Medical Bureau this morning to get our jabs. By pure chance the doctor who administered our jabs was born in Iran. He left the country in 1983 and is less than complementary about the theocratic regime. I mentioned the meddling done by America to protect its oil interests (in particular, the CIA coup against Prime Minister Mossadeq - more on that later) but our doc insisted that Iranians can't blame foreign influence for the state of the country - he reckons they've brought the current system upon themselves. I didn't even feel the needle go in.
The guide book indicated that we need inoculations for diphtheria, tetanus, measles, mumps, rubella, polio and hepatitis B, but we only needed a typhoid jab (which cost €36.00, plus the €40 consultation fee.) Our doc also prescribed two courses of the antibiotic Flagyl in case we get a dose of some bacterial infection. Hope we won't need it.
Other than that, the usual rules apply; don't drink the tap-water, peel fruit, only eat cooked food, don't eat salads or food that's been cooked and left to cool. Second nature to old India hands like Asho and me.
14 October 2008
Change money part 1: Credit cards and traveller's cheques
Due to international sanctions, traveller's cheques and credit cards are useless in Iran; only dollars and euro are accepted, and only then in a small number of banks and a smaller number of branches of those banks. Once inside a bank that will change money, it'll be a good half-hour of queueing and endless form-filling before I'll get to see my Iranian rials.
The rest of the time I'll have my readies stashed about my person - not a prospect that fills me with delight. At least Aisling will have her gown as an extra layer of protection against pickpockets.
13 October 2008
What we're reading, part 1: "Shah of Shahs"
Shah of Shahs - Ryszard KapuscinskiI'd picked up this book on the recommendation of a friend, Fiona, before Aisling and I decided to visit Iran. I saw the book in Fiona's reading stack. It caught my attention because Kapuscinski had recently died. Fiona let me know just what a powerful writer he was and recommended this particular book to me.
It's a slim book, written almost like a meditation. Kapuscinski sits in his hotel room, in the aftermath of the Islamic Revolution of 1979. He brings the reader on a journey through the previous few years of Iranian history.
The Shah attempts to buy his country into modernity by profligate spending on military and petrochemical hardware and contracts to foreign specialists. The ordinary people of Iran see no benefit from any of this; they are cowed into submission by the vicious secret service. Disenchantment grows and grows, spurred on by the violence the Shah uses to suppress the population. Politicised Imams are the rallying point, and it's they who take the reins of power as the Shah's regime collapses and he and his family flee Iran.
What we're watching
There are plenty of fascinating documentaries about Iran. Two that Aisling and I have found especially interesting are Transsexual in Iran (aired on BBC2 earlier this year) and Prostitution behind the Veil (aired on BBC4).
Transsexual in Iran opens with the following text: "In the Islamic Republic of Iran, sex change operations are legal. Homosexuality is punishable by death." Two young men who are planning to have sex-change operations open themselves up to the film maker. During the course of the documentary, it becomes distressingly clear that these two young men are not transsexuals, but simply gay - yet they don't describe themselves as such. In order to be allowed physical fulfilment, they subject themselves to the physical ordeal of gender re-assignment. A top-ranking mullah pronounces that because the Koran makes no mention of sex-change operations, the procedure is permitted by Islam. Homosexuality, on the other hand, clearly condemned in the Koran, is a capital offence.
Prostitution behind the Veil covers the lives of two heroin-addicted women, who undergo temporary marriage (permitted under Sharia law) in order to sleep with their clients. They bring their children with them. The film was made by a Swedish-Iranian director. Powerful stuff.
Flight times change...
Just got notification from Trailfinders, our travel agent, that the departure times of our Amsterdam to Tehran flights have changed; this is quite a common occurrence for long-haul flights.This alone is a good reason not to book you own flights online for a trip like this.
Trailfinders have kindly moved the Dublin to Amsterdam leg of the journey; we haven't had to lift a finger and there's been no penalty for changing the Aer Lingus flights to Amsterdam.
11 October 2008
Breaking News
Looks like I'm being paranoid on that one - there's no mention of Iran on this context, except as one of entries on the US's list of states which support terrorism: Cuba, Iran, Sudan and Syria.
10 October 2008
Learning the language
I reckon it'll be worthwhile to have a smattering of Persian while we're there; Persian is an Indo-European language, so it can't be that hard to learn, right? (...especially as I speak a bit of Dutch too).
I'd picked up Lonely Planet's Farsi Phrase Book and Teach Yourself Modern Persian, but I've found Pimsleur's Farsi to be the best of the lot. The lessons are well-paced and short. I was delighted to be able to understand a very simple conversation after half an hour of practice. It turns out that Persian grammar is a bit like Irish and the guttural 'kh' sound is just like the Dutch soft 'g'. I think it sounds quite posh.
No, I don't know what he's saying either - yet.
I'd picked up Lonely Planet's Farsi Phrase Book and Teach Yourself Modern Persian, but I've found Pimsleur's Farsi to be the best of the lot. The lessons are well-paced and short. I was delighted to be able to understand a very simple conversation after half an hour of practice. It turns out that Persian grammar is a bit like Irish and the guttural 'kh' sound is just like the Dutch soft 'g'. I think it sounds quite posh.
No, I don't know what he's saying either - yet.
Why Iran?
Sixty-six days from now my partner Aisling and I head off to Iran for three weeks to escape Christmas. Why Iran?
Well, why not? It's perfectly safe for travellers. It's the birthplace of agriculture and sophisticated civilisation. It's also a regional power and the only country in the world with a majority Shia population. It's part of the medieval overland trade route between Europe and China.
Apart from those anodyne reasons, we're mainly going there to challenge our own assumptions about the country. Like you, we've been bombarded with media telling us that Iran is part of an axis of evil and is a belligerent power holding Israel to ransom with the threat of nuclear annihilation.
Iran is a schizophrenic country; think of the different feelings and impressions triggered by the two names for the country: Persia and Iran. One speaks of opulent riches, magnificent architecture, high culture; the other of a reactionary theocracy, grimy cities, fist-shaking bearded men and chador-wearing women.
Three weeks isn't much time to really get a feel for a place; ostensibly we'll be tourists, but I'm learning a bit of Persian and hope to get to understand the Iranian psyche a little. Aisling's interested in the challenge posed to her Western sensibilities of subsuming her personality under a veil.
This blog is as much about the preparation as it is about the trip and our reactions to it; over the next few weeks we'll be getting jabs, filling out our visas and firming up our itinerary. Of course, where possible, we'll blog from Iran.
Aisling and I have spent six months in India and a couple of months in Nepal, over various trips; we've been to Vietnam and Turkey and now we're open to a new challenge. We hope you'll enjoy coming with us on our journey to a country that all of us know about but very few of us actually know first-hand.
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