Iran, day zero: Expected versus actual:
Airport passport control and customs
Expected: grim-faced, militaristic customs staff and heavily armed police all over the terminal building. Actual: Friendly passport control guy, who smiled and said "Welcome to Iran" in a slightly embarrased, I'm practicing-my-English sort of way. No police, no guns. Plenty of smiling families everywhere.
Tehran architecture
Expected: Grim concrete. Actual: Astonishingly grim, ugly concrete.
Hotel room
Expected: International quality double room. Actual: Twin room decorated in a hospital interior design style. Two singles. Hotel otherwise booked out, so no other option.
State of mind: Expected: excited anticipation. Actual: Stressed anticipation.
We got into Tehran at five to midnight and crept into our (separate) beds at two'oclock in the morning. We're here.
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