Life goes on in Tehran

Aisling found this wonderful photo blog on ordinary daily life in Tehran. I'll let the author speak for themselves:

The whole idea behind my site is to show that Iran is not a dangerous country. To show that for the most part it's a beautiful country with kind, loving and hospitable people. If I were to constrain myself and not say everything that needs to be said then I would imply that I am afraid, and being afraid would mean that this is in fact a dangerous country and in doing so I would defeat my whole purpose! That said, if I were to be arrested or in any way reprimanded for this site, I would take back everything I just said. If I get arrested for a site that captures daily life in Tehran, then this country must be in deep trouble and suffering from an extreme case of paranoia. If this happens, I will invite all my visitors to raise hell.

What we're reading, part 3: Lonely Planet: Iran

Lonely Planet: Iran
Originally uploaded by rastapopolos

Lonely Planet: Iran, 2008.

The guide book which leaves the others in the shade. Aisling gives out to me for my reliance on this publishing house, but I've seldom been let down by their guide books in the eighteen years I've been using them.

The Iran guide is particularly useful for the information it provides on the culture and mores of Iran. Apart from that, you'll have a superb amount of completely practical information at your fingertips: Where do I get the bus from? What's the routine with taxis? (...arrange a fare, take the ride, feel like you got skanked - it's the same all over the world!) What can I eat? How do I say "Help! I've lost my wallet!" in the local language?

Lonely Planet guide books have become more visually pleasing in the last few years but haven't diverged from their original dense, information-packed two-column layout for the sections on travel in the country - this layout is superb for rapid scanning. The sections on context are in a more familiar single-column layout for reading and absorbing at a more leisurely pace.

The two things about these guide books which have caught me out before are the maps which almost-but-not-quite match the layout on the ground; maybe LP include trap streets on every map? Certainly feels like it sometimes.

The other point, unsurprisingly, is prices. Often you'll find that prices have inflated by a substantial proportion since the guide book was published. As inflation in Iran is currently running at over 24% for the first four months of 2008, it's probably safe to add another half again to any prices you see in the book. We'll report on this as we go.

What we're reading, part 2: "Iran: Everything You Need To Know"

img_8113
Originally uploaded by rastapopolos

"Iran: Everything You Need To Know by John Farndon, 2006, 128 pages, large type.

This is a short, light history of Iran written (as far as I can tell) without too much of a slant. It's especially useful for the quick summary of recent Iranian history and the structure of the political system. You'll read it in a couple of sittings. Useful for getting a quick overview of the country and its history.

I picked this up almost as an afterthought while buying a bunch of other books on Iran from Amazon. I'm glad I did; It's cheap and accessible, even if history and politics aren't your thing.

Magic Carpet Ride

Magic Carpet Ride
Originally uploaded by Stars*Go*Blue

For as long as I can remember I have had a fascination with magic carpets and the wonderful concept of being able to fly off to any corner of the globe at a moments notice. I suppose this childhood fantasy has evolved into a love of travel and a desire to see some of the most amazing places in the world. So when Ben suggested Iran as a possible trip, it immediately conjured up a variety of different images for me.

As Ben has mentioned, there is a contrast between the almost mystical and magical Persian association which I visualise in a kaleidoscope of rich vibrant colours and patterns and present day Iran which if I am honest, I see as being more black and repressed. As a woman I find it hard to 'see' Iran in my mind without dis-associating it from images of women wrapped from head to toe in black loose-flowing robes.

It has been really interesting to dig deeper and research this country more so that I can dispel some of my initial pre-conceptions about Iran. My experience though will undoubtedly be different to Ben's as there are many restrictions and etiquette for female travellers that must be 'religiously' followed. This trip will challenge me in lots of different ways but I am looking forward to having a new persona for thee weeks and am thinking about this trip as a 'Fancy Dress' adventure!

Robin Yassin-Kassab: "My wife wears the hijab. I wish she didn't"

Monika brought an article in last weekend's Observer magazine to our attention: Robin Yassin-Kassab, author of Road from Damascus (which Aisling read and thoroughly enjoyed) has written a piece entitled "My wife wears the hijab, I wish she didn't". His wife Rana replies in a follow-on piece on the next page. One phrase of Rana's leapt out at Aisling:

"...you have to believe in a superior power that knows better than you do."

Eh, no, you don't, actually. What a disempowering thought.

Robin Yassin-Kassab also blogs here on blogspot. His pieces are always interesting and thought-provoking. He's posted the unedited version of this article too.

sligo hejab

Here's a friend of Marek's in Sligo a couple of weeks ago - she's a Polish catholic. It put me in mind of how Iranian women tend to dress when elsewhere in the middle east: